6 May 2025

More lost farms above Cardiff

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage Paths, Pilgrimage, Welsh History | 0

I had another go at the hollow lanes which form part of the pilgrimage route from Llandaff to Penrhys. The waymarked path goes up Church Road to Pentyrch and swings round to cross Heol Pantygored and rejoin the road near the entrance to the quarry. The original hollow way, though, goes straight on past Craig y Parc. On the way up, you pass two more of the little ruined farmsteads that dot the hills above Cardiff. The lane is now called Tawel-fan, and indeed it is a quiet place, but on the tithe map the farms have different names. This one

is Gockatt Isha (Cockid Isaf on the 2nd edition OS, c 1900). In c 1840 it was a smallholding of just over 7 a., held of the Bute estate by a John David.

This one

a little further up the lane, is also called Gockatt Isha on the tithe map but is described in the apportionment as a house and garden, held of the Bute estate by Miles Evan. On the 2nd edition OS map it is called Cockid Ganol.

Gockid Ucha, at the top of the lane, seems to have completely disappeared. It was part of the Dynevor estate, an even smaller holding of just over 3a., held by William Evans.

And this is what I call a hollow lane.

5 May 2025

Lost churches in the south Wales uplands

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage (General), Welsh History | 0

The hills above the mining valleys of south Wales are dotted with the remains of little medieval churches. (Technically they were chapels – chapels of ease, where the congregation still had to go to the parish church for baptisms, marriages and burials, or possibly parochial chapelries which could perform these rituals. But in the Welsh valleys the word ‘chapel’ always calls to mind the Nonconformist churches of the industrial era.) Manmoel, Capel Brithdir, Capel Gwladus, Coly Uchaf, Forest Chapel, Capel y Fan, Capel Baiden; further to the west, Capel Gyfylchi may have had a medieval predecessor (it was recorded as ‘an old chapel in ruins’ in 1763: John Morgan-Guy, the Diocese of Llandaff in 1763, South Wales Record Society, 1991, p. 44). There was a chapel at Resolven, in ruins by 1718 (Morgan-Guy, Diocese of Llandaff in 1763, p. 46) and William Rees marked a chapel called Llaneithrim on Mynydd Carnllechart, west of Pontardawe. (He never gave references, which can make retracing his work a bit tricky.)

Some of these little churches have evidence for nearby peasant housing. At Manmoel, the boundaries of the Cistercian grange go carefully around what must have been a settlement north of the Nant y Felin, and there are house platforms dotted aound Coly and Capel Gwladus on Cefn Gelli-gaer. Accrding to Nathaniel Jones, rector of Merthyr 1640-62, there was a hamlet of over 50 houses served by Capel y Fan; by his time, the chapel had been converted into a dwelling house and the inhabitants were unable to come to church. (His account is transcribed by Frank T. James in Y Cymmrodor vol. 35, 1925, online at https://journals.library.wales/view/1386446/1398546/168#?xywh=-168%2C464%2C3333%2C1801 .) There is no evidence now for any housing near the remains of the chapel.

Other lost churches seem completely deserted, though they must have had a congregation at some time. One of the most remote is Forest Chapel, at SO 08203 00565 on the ridge between the Taff and the Rhymney. All that is left of it is the foundations of its walls under the turf and a faint bank round a little enclosure to the east. (Details on Coflein at https://coflein.gov.uk/en/site/15316/ )

The only evidence of housing is the very faint foundations of a rectangular building about 1½ km to the south, and a little to the west of Fforest Farm at ST 0864 9938. According to the Royal Commission inventory, this could be an early house but could also have been a farm building.

A steep minor road runs up to the ridge from Treharris, deteriorating into a track after Tir-lan Farm. Along the track, at about ST 09205 99611, is this

Virtually unphotographable, but there is stone under the turf. Could it be a cross-ridge dyke, one of those early medieval land boiundaries which appear on several of the ridges between the mining valleys. There is something marked as ‘field system’ on the OS 1:25,000 map but I can’t find anything on Coflein or the Royal Commission inventories.

We rarely know anything about the foundation and desertion of these little churches. Manmoel and Capel Gwladus both appear in Lifris’s late C11 life of St Cadoc so are presumably pre-Norman; Capel Gwladus also an early medieval inscribed stone (now in the parish church at Gelli-gaer). Brithdir had another simple early medieval inscribed stone built into its fabric (it is now in the church at Bargoed) and it was near a major early medieval stone, the Tegernacus stone (now in the National Museum), so that too could be early. Others were probably established to serve the needs of peasant farmers in the period of agricultural expansion in the C12 and C13 when the climate was rather better. Most would then have gone out of use when the climate deteriorated in the early C14. Manmoel and Capel Gwladus were both converted into houses. Manmoel is still a farm house, but Capel Gwladus is little more than stones under the turf. As we have seen, Capel y Fan was also converted into a dwelling house. Capel Brithdir must have been a parochial chapelry, as it has a graveyard, which was in use well into the C19. It was rebuilt on its medieval foundations but went out of use and was demolished in 1960. Baiden was also rebuilt at some point and was being used in 1763 but was ruinous again by 1781 (Morgan-Guy, Diocese of Llandaff in 1763 p. 39). Other former chapels of ease Blaengwrach, Crynant and Aberpergwm have also become parish churches in their own right. As with the lost farmsteads which dot the hills round Cardiff, it is hard to see why one chapel of ease should have fallen into ruins while another has become a parish church.

10 Aug 2024

Early mining on Cefn Carnau

by | posted in: Heritage (General), Welsh History | 0

Following on from my blog posts on deserted cottages and farmsteads above Cardiff, I have been sent some information about early coal mining on Cefn Carnau. In his History of Caerphilly, H. P. Richards says (without references, unfortunately) that coal was being mined on Cefn Carnau in 1307 and the mone was still in operation in 1542. He also referred to early mines in Rhydri and Machen Forest.

I would need to do some more work to track down the evidence for all this. Meanwhile, I have been told that there are conical tips on the ridge above Blaen Nofydd, one at ST 169 849 and one a little further down the Heol Hir. So Gwen and I set out with my sharp-eyed French cousin Amy to have a look.

Looking with early industry in mind, the lane up from Blaen-nofydd to the Heol Hir has plenty of what could have been fairly shallow pits and the upcast from them. These

are quite near the bottom of the lane. ST 169 849 is further up, just east of the junction with the Heol Hir. There are some possible tips

but nothing really definite. This

got us quite excited – at first sight it looked like a house platform but on closer inspection it was an outcrop.

And were these

further evidence of digging?

This was as near as we could get to something like a tip further down the Heol Hir

– we will have to go back when the leaves are off the trees and the undergrowth has died down a bit.

And where would the workers in these mines have lived? Should we be looking for more house platforms in the adjoining fields? Bwlch-y-llechfaen is right next to the upper tip, and Bwlch y Gelli is less than half a kilometer down the lane. A little further away are Ty Draw to the north (¾km) and a farm and cottage about the same distance down the Heol Hir to the south. If (and it’s a big if) these are on the site of medieval houses, and given that the mine would have been fairly small and not worked continuously, it’s possible that the men from these little farms worked in the mine when there was work to be had and that the women worked the land. This was the basis of much early industrial society. My own house originally had a garden almost big enough for a smallholding, with buildings for chickens and pigs. The men worked in the local mines and iron works and the women produced the food.

16 Oct 2023

More lost farmsteads: Craig yr Allt

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage (General), Welsh History | 1

Now that Gwen the cockapoo puppy is a little older (and a little more ready to come back when called), we are doing longer walks. Today, we went up Craig yr Allt, and I was reminded that I never did look for details of this

 

at about OS Grid Ref: ST 12516 84638. From the path just a heap of tumbled stone,

 

but up in the brambles there is a bit more of a wall.

 

And a little further up the slope, at about ST 12575 84628

 

a little more stonework.

They took some finding on the wonderful https://places.library.wales but they are there – it’s just tricky overlaying the 2nd edition OS and the tithe plan on the modern satellite image. Also the tithe plan shows the 2 buildings much closer together that they actually are.

In 1839, the date of the tithe plan for the huge parish of Eglwysilan, they were part of a farm called Tir Craig yr Allt. They may originally have been part of another smaller farm which had been absorbed into Tir Craig yr Allt. The lower of the two buildings isn’t named but is in a small field called Cae dan y ty, the field below the house. The upper building is in a field called Cae ysgubor, Barn field. T he main farmhouse of Tir Craig yr Allt (described as ‘Homestead’ on the tithe plan) was at about ST 13787 84873. This added to the confusion: between the tithe plan and the 1st edition OS map (surveyed 1875), the farmhouse had been rebuilt a little further down the valley of the Nant Brynau. This farm, now just called Craig yr Allt, is still there: it is a large farm and riding stables. Alas, the site of the ‘Homestead’ isn’t accessible: it’s in the woods between the drive to Craig yr Allt and the Nant Brynau, so we can’t check if anything remains of the old farmhouse.

In 1840, Tir Craig yr Allt was the property of Robert Henry Clive, part of what would become the Plymouth estate, and the tenant was Mary Williams. It was a substantial farm of nearly 130 acres, though just over 50 a. of that was rough mountain grazing.

A little further up the lane (I need to go back and check the grid reference) was this

 

(Gwen for scale) – presumably an old adit. Coal levels and quarries are marked along the lane on the 2nd edition OS, and both lead and iron were found in the area.

8 May 2021

Reeves and dunghills

by | posted in: Archaeology, Welsh History | 1

This is real hardcore lost farmsteads – this

is all that is left of a farm called Maerdy. It appears on the tithe plan as Mardy Du, and in 1840 it was being farmed along with a larger farm, Gwern y Domen. It belonged to the Plymouth estate and the tenant was an Edmund Morgan (I think he has cropped up elsewhere – was he sub-letting?). It’s on the 1900 OS map as Maerdy cottages, so it seems to have gone down in the world, and it’s possible that the outbuilding marked on the tithe plan has become a cottage. There is still something marked on the 1:25.000 OS map at ST 17007 87450 but it’s hard to locate on the ground. The track down from Gwern-y-domen Farm to the railway line doesn’t follow the line of the right of way, the woods have expanded since the aerial photo was taken … but this is my best guess.

 

 

We tried to find the well, which is a little further up the slope. The stream clearly flows from it

 

but the brambles defeated even Nell.

 

This is all a pity, as Maerdy would have been one of the most important farms in the area in the middle ages. Under Welsh law, the maer was the royal official in each commote, responsible for cultivating the king’s land and supervising the serfs (somewhat like a reeve in England). He also presided over the local court. As the Norman marcher lords took over from local Welsh rulers, they took over the organizational structure of the commotes, so the office of maer continued into the later medieval period.

But there was another maer in each commote, the maer y biswail (literally the dung-reeve) who was responsible for the lord’s cattle and could have day-to-day responsibility for farming as well. In The Welsh King and his Court, Glanville Jones pointed out that most places called maerdy were actually the homes of dung-reeves. So our farm may have been the home of a practical farm supervisor rather than a court official.

In a comment on my blog post on Parc y Fan at https://www.heritagetortoise.co.uk/2020/09/parc-y-fan/, John Owen suggested that the name might indicate the home farm for the centre of a multiple estate, possibly based on a building near the site of the Van Mansion. The various surveys of the De Clare estates mention Rudry, Hendrenny and Castell Coch as separate units, possibly manors? This he thinks may be the frozen remains of a multiple estate. Multiple estates were large land holdings organized so that they included all the necessary resources – good arable land, meadow, pasture, woodland, marsh land, rough mountain etc.

Or is there some connection with Gwern y Domen? The actual tomen is a castle mound a little to the north-east of Maerdy, with its bailey cut across by the disused railway line. Could this have been the local stronghold with Maerdy as the administrative headquarters? The problem is that we have little or no documentation and the archaeology has been messed up by industrial development and later housing.

But we do still have records of farms like Maerdy, Parc y Fan, Treboeth and the Warren to enable us to start reconstructing the old farming landscape.

8 Sep 2020

Parc y Fan

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage (General), Welsh History | 4

Well, this is another that I must have walked past several times without realising what it was. These foundations under the brambles and bracken

must be all that’s left of Parc y Fan (OK, Park y Van in Wenglish), a substantial farm part of the Plymouth estate. The ruins are at ST 17282 86667, just to the east of the Van house and near the bottom of the footpath down from the Gwernydomen lane to the Nant Gwaunybara.

John Owen remembers ‘substantial remains’ here (see his comments under Treboeth on this blog) but there is little left now.

It was a sizeable farm – 83½ acres according to the tithe apportionment, between the Van and the Nant Gwaunybara. The same tenant also held the area to the east called Van Park, 115 acres of pasture and woodland. By the time of the first edition 6” OS map (surveyed 1875), all the land on the east side of the brook was wooded but this still left a substantial farm of over 80 acres. The buildings are still marked on the modern 1:25,000 map but there is really very little on the ground.

 

Then there’s this,

a little to the east and just above the Nant Gwaunybara – but this is clearly a field wall,

above the steep bank of the stream, and this

is probably the field angle marked on the early OS. The layout of the buildings at Parc y Fan changes from map to map, and it isn’t clear which was the farmhouse and which the outbuildings. Also there’s a well somewhere above the farmhouse. We need another look when the vegetation has died down.

The name of the farm  might lead us to speculate that this was where the park keeper for the Van park lived. The Lewis family emparked a huge area east of the house, probably in the sixteenth century (Rice Merrick described a park there in 1578).  The present house of the Van was built in the 1580s. The family then moved to St Fagans and leased the Van to tenants. The park went out of use, and by the time of the tithe plan it was mostly farm land, part of the Van, Gwern y Domen, Maerdy (Mardy Du on the tithe plan) and Park y Van. The park straddled the parish boundary. West of the Nant Gwernydomen was in the Van hamlet of Bedwas (a Monmouthshire parish but with hamlets in Glamorgan – the parish boundaries in this area a very idiosyncratic). East of the stream was in the parish of Rudry. (You get some idea of the problems of surveying these farms by the fact that the road from Caerphilly to Rudry, which is the southern boundary of the farm, doesn’t line up between the two maps.) John Owen has looked at the C18 estate maps in the Plymouth collection in the Glamorgan Archives. They show the park extending south of the present Caerphilly-Rudry road, including the Warren and Ty’n-y-parc (see https://www.heritagetortoise.co.uk/2020/08/the-warren/ and https://www.heritagetortoise.co.uk/2020/05/more-deserted-farmsteads/). So did the road run through the park – or does the road post-date the park? We need to get back to the estate surveys when the record office is open.

Maerdy might be the next one to explore – it was being farmed with Gwernydomen on the tithe apportionment. It’s  marked as Maerdy Cottages on the old OS maps but there doesn’t seem to be a house there now. Alas, Caerphilly is currently in lockdown because the number of Covid-19 cases there is on the increase, so Nell and I will have to take to walking somewhere else. Time for a look at the Llandaff-Penrhys pilgrimage route, maybe?

31 Aug 2020

The Warren

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage (General), Welsh History | 0

As I expected, there was very little to see on the site of the Warren farm. It’s on the tithe plan but as part of Treboeth, the farm to the east (https://www.heritagetortoise.co.uk/2020/08/tre-boeth-the-warm-town/). Here’s a sketch plan based on the tithe plan on places.library.wales (field numbers refer to the tithe apportionment – click through to that from the map on the web site)

and the detail of the actual farmstead

By the time of the first 6” Ordnance Survey it had vanished under the forest.

Or had it?

Part of the difficulty is that the track marked on the modern OS running past it isn’t really there on the ground. You really need the eye of faith to identify this as a track!

But persevere and just to the north of the track you spot this

 

the south-west angle of the farmyard (no. 1 on the plan).

And you can just see the line of the wall going north (2 on the plan)

and the return (3 on the plan).

The eastern wall of the farmyard is quite clear (4 on the plan)

the north-east corner (5 on the plan)

and the return (6 on the plan).

The farmhouse is just heaps of tumbled stone (the shaded area on the plan).

 

 

 

Having walked all round it several times, I’m pretty convinced that this is the site of the farm. The problem is that it is at about ST 16229 85809, 40-50 m east of where the farm is marked on the tithe plan. The 1841 plan puts the farm virtually on the bank of a little stream running north out of the woods. The remains I have found are some way to the east.

However – looking at the 6” OS map (this is a sketch based on it)

The pin marker shows the eastern end of the farmstead according to the tithe plan overlay (I’m working between the tithe plan and 2nd edition OS on places.library.wales and the 2nd edition OS and modern OS on https://historicplacenames.rcahmw.gov.uk/ – there doesn’t seem to be a single site that does the lot, and none of them uses the 1:25,000 OS Leisure map, which is the really useful one). But on the OS map there is a small square building a little to the east (outlined in red on the sketch plan).  Is this the real location of the Warren – and is the little square building all that was left of it, used as some sort of shelter, perhaps, for workmen in the plantation?

The name Warren is interesting. Warrens were preserves for rabbits, at a time when rabbits were useful but very fragile little creatures and the perquisites of lords and gentry. They came from southern Europe and took a long time to adapt to the colder and wetter climate of England and Wales. Special raised burrows called pillow mounds were built for them, and they were cared for by warreners. Our farm could have started as the warrener’s home.

There is no documentary evidence for a warren on Caerphilly Mountain. However, the big field to the west of the Warren farm (519 on the tithe plan) is actually called the Warren, and the field in which the farmstead sits is called Warren Fawr. The fields north-west of Warren farm are part of Ty’n-y-cae and are all called Cae pen y warren on the tithe apportionment. This really does look indicative.

What we can’t tell, in the absence of any documentation, is how old the warren was and who it belonged to. If it was medieval, it belonged to Caerphilly Castle. However, warrens were still being constructed in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, so it could have belonged to the Lewis family of the Van, the big house across the valley, before they moved to St Fagans.

John Owen’s comments on the post on Treboeth are very illuminating. Treboeth was there in the later middle ages, and wood from there went to repair a bridge in Caerphilly Castle in 1428. If the Warren really was a warrener’s house, these two little ruins, hidden under the trees, are some of our earliest evidence for the farming landscape east of Caerphilly.

10 Aug 2020

Not the Head of the Pass

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The woods between Rudry and Parc Cefn-onn are about the limit for my weekly long walk – about 12-13 miles with quite a bit of Up! But there is still plenty to have a look at.

This little ruined farmstead at ST 19223 85750

took a surprising amount of finding. Part of the problem was the name. On the old OS maps it’s Pen-y-bwlch, Head of the Pass – but it’s actually well down in the valley. The current OS marks a track to it – a double-pecked-line track, looking on the map like a forest road, with a bridleway along it and crossing the footpath and the little stream to head over the fields to Ty’n-y-graig.

But there is no road through the woods. Just the footpath south from Coedcae Garw along the edge of Coed Coesau-whips. The old maps put it east of the footpath but the path now goes between the house (to the west)

and what remains of the outbuildings.

(Someone has made a firepit with a lot of the outbuilding stone.)

Once we found it, though, after a couple of false starts, it was worth the effort.

(here’s Nell on the house wall.)

On the tithe plan it’s a farm of just over 20 acres, with a couple of fields along the lane to the north and the rest to the south and east. Coed Coesau-whips on the tithe plan is smaller but still shown as mainly conifers – but John Owen’s idea that the name suggests charcoal production for the iron industry would mean an earlier wood of something like beech and oak. I do wonder whether these little farms like Coedcae Garw, Cwm and Pen-y-bwlch were carved out of the original wood. Then when timber became a valuable commercial commodity for pit props and the plantation was extended, the farms were reabsorbed.

There would also have been access problems. On the tithe plan the access is down the lane past Coedcae Garw,

across the ford

and up a narrow hollow way –

this must have been possible only for a single horse, no room for even a small wheeled vehicle. By 1900 there was a track through the woods, but by that date most of the farmland had been lost to forest. The house is still marked by name but can only have been a cottage for something like a forest worker.

Access may have been what put an end to a lot of these little farms – once farming moved from using horses to mechanical vehicles, anywhere far off the road would have great difficulty in keeping going.

4 Aug 2020

Coedcae and the Cwm

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Having found the ruins of Coedcae Garw thanks to @mikekohnstamm (https://www.heritagetortoise.co.uk/2020/07/coedcae-garw/) I’ve reverse engineered the process and gone back to looking for farms and smallholdings which are on the tithe plans and the old OS but not on the modern map. There were two just along the lane from Coedcae Garw. Ty’r-ywen is at grid ref. ST 20152 86428 and Cwm is at ST 19911 86265.

Ty’r-ywen on the tithe map was a cottage and garden of 1 rood 20 perches, belonging to the Clive estate and tenanted by a Thomas Thomas. It was too small to have any value for tithe. There are 4 roods to an acre and 40 perches to a rood, so Thomas’s garden was about 1,500 square metres, about the size of 3 tennis courts. Enough to grow veg for a family and keep a pig and a few chickens but not enough to live on. The men of the family probably worked in the nerby iron works or on bigger farms and the women and young children looked after the homestead. You find a similar pattern all along the edge of the industrial area – my father-in-law was brought up on a similar smallholding in the Sirhowy valley, and my own house originally stood in a garden nearly as big as Ty’r-ywen’s.

Ty’r-ywen is named on the 1915/22 6” OS map (accessible on the wonderful maps.nls.uk site).  A building is marked on the 1948-1953 map but without a name. All that is there now is this

the concrete bases for prefab panels. It looks very much as though the cottage was deserted and rebuilt as some sort of farm building, then that too became derelict.

The other lost smallholding is Cwm. It’s complicated because there are actually two farms called Cwm in that little valley. One is just across the lane from Ty’r-ywen and is now quite a big horse-riding establishment. The other is a little way  up stream, just off the Ridgeway Path and just before the path crosses the stream and goes up into the trees. On the tithe plan it’s a bit complicated. The house, garden and croft, a little over 2acres, belong to the Morgan estate and are tenanted by a John Morgan. But the surrounding fields, Waun and Cae Fry, are called ‘Cwm Land’, also part of the Morgan estate and tenanted by Spencer Thomas. The fields on the other side of the stream,  called Cwm mawr and Cwm Ceffyl, belong to the bigger Cwm farm, part of the Clive estate and tenanted by  Isaac Price.

This must be the house

 

 

 

just a bit of tumbled stone under the brambles. Another candidate for a winter visit, when the undergrowth has died down a bit.

The path south into the woods was stiled and waymarked so we gave it a go. It is steep, and damp in places, but a good clear route cutting across the forest roads to the top of the next ridge. We looked at this

between the forest edge and the trig point but there’s nothing on the OS or tithe plans so we concluded it was tumbled stone from the field wall.

Sometimes a heap of stone is just a heap of stone.

But the views from the trig point are splendid.

29 Jul 2020

Coedcae Garw

by | posted in: Archaeology, Heritage (General), Welsh History | 5

I’m still finding ruined farmsteads north of Cardiff. The number surprises me. We’re used to finding little lost farms in the upland forests – they were no longer viable in the changing economy of the later 20th century and many were swallowed up by the Forestry Commission in the great drive to plant conifers after World War 2. On the fringes of Cardiff, though, you would have thought they could have kept going with market gardening, chickens and dairying – but it was a hard life, and jobs in light industry must have been attractive.

This one

was first spotted by @mikekohnstamm. It’s on the slopes above Lisvane but in the parish of Rudry, where Coed Cefn-onn meets Coed Coesau-whips. On the Tithe Map it’s Coedcae Garw, a smallholding of 11 acres, part of the Tredegar estate and occupied in 1840 by Edward Rowlands. Most of its land is to the south-west, and Edward Rowlands was also farming land down the lane part of the Clive estate. It’s still marked on the 1953 6” map but it may have been deserted by then.

Part of the farm house seems to have been rebuilt in brick, probably in the late 19th or early 20th centuries,

but the old pigsties are still stone.

My grandparents kept pigs on their farm at Cefn Llwyd, a couple of miles to the east. They always took the sows to the boar at the Maen-llwyd, and there was one sow who could find her own way there when she felt like it. I wonder whether the sows at Coedcae Garw went to the same boar.

The name Coed Coesau-whips is interesting. John Owen of Caerphilly suggests it could indicate that the older woods were coppiced to provide charcoal for the iron industry. There was a lead shaft just above Coedcae Garw (still visible on the Rhymney Valley Ridgeway) and the Rudry iron mine is a little further down the Nant y Cwm.

There are also a couple more farms that don’t seem to be on the modern map – Cwm and Ty’rywen. Next week, perhaps.